J. Crew Mens Spring 2010

I first got excited about Spring 2010 at J. Crew when I saw Matthew Goode sporting this sweatshirt way back when the January issue of GQ first came out.

::image source: tFS::

Thread-bare knicked cuffs! Crusted splotches of acrylic! Of course, processed and paint-splattered is nothing new (hello Ralph Lauren circa Spring 2005).

Enter the promotional video J. Crew has carefully placed on the front men's page of their website. I must say, getting a look at their spring presentation and hearing their creative director, Frank Muytjens speak of the inspiration behind the spring looks gives much cred and substance to what has begun popping into stores. There's mention of military, nautical, workwear, and suiting -- all mixed in together in an attempt to create a unique look within itself. Umm, not necessarily the most original in ideas, but okay, we'll go with it...just because the individual pieces themselves do look good.

::all video stills from jcrew.com::

There's specific reference to Japan and deriving influence from the nation's steadfast dedication to workwear (which, ironically, as most people know by now, is also a reflection of the country's obsession with quality Americana of yore).

And of course, Matthew's sweatshirt gets front row purview.

A couple other pics of my picks based on the vid:

I guess these shorts come as no surprise as another item on my list given the caked on layers of color. Despite the DIY-rich context paint-splattered articles of clothing embody, who has the time and the effort? Certainly not me these days. On top of that, I do like the cutoff quality of these shorts (okay, I admit, once again DIY-able).

Mr. Muytjens mentions sunbleached tones as being a theme in the collection, and nothing speaks nautical to me more than different gradations of faded blue on chino fabric.

And in keeping with J. Crew's growing presence in the world of collabs, this top (underneath the blazer) is of interest to me. A "collaboration on top of a collaboration" as Muytjens refers to it, the boatneck (wait, haven't I mentioned my interest in trying out boatnecks lately? ;) tops are done by Saint James and then sent over to be worked on some more by Mr. Freedom.

I read a little bit about the Mister Freedom partnership in this past fall/winter's premier edition of Inventory, a Canadian publication. Formerly h(y)r collective, which I remember as a simple and well-organized online magazine with the best features (anybody remember their profiling the Band of Outsiders Fall 2008 collection?), I was thrilled to learn they'd grown to a point where a print magazine was possible. This first issue is a great collection of interviews and stories with names and labels that cater to individuals with taste and discernment that go far and beyond what J. Crew can offer. I highly recommend, and I'm glad to have it in my collection of readables. Of the selected few, Mr. Freedom is one of the labels to be featured.

I purchased my copy direct from Inventory Magazine, but I do recall seeing that J. Crew had begun offering this first edition on its site as well... If you don't have a copy, here's an excerpt from the interview with Christophe Loiron, the man behind Mr. Freedom.

<< Lately you've been wholesaling to J. Crew. How did that come up? Has it been helpful in terms of raising awareness for Mr. Freedom?

When I first started selling vintage stuff back in late '90's I used to sell vintage pieces to Todd Snyder and Frank Muytjens, the heads of men's design there. Then they saw what I was making and started ordering custom-made stuff from me: t-shirts, bags and things. Then one day Mickey Drexler, the mastermind behind today's J. Crew, was in town and honored me with a visit. He made it all happen.

It was the first time a well-established American company would buy MF and put it as-is in their store with no re-design or re-labeling. It was a great honor for me to be allowed to play in the major leagues. J. Crew understands that MF is standing solely on its integrity. I don't have money to fool people with fake advertising campaigns or endorsements from big stars. I just design and make stuff, then let it do its thing on the market. My niche is definitely not a big money making venture but J. Crew gave us some recognition as well as energy, motivation and the fuel to go on. The folks at J. Crew have been a blessing and are allowing us to not have to change or sell out but keep roaming freely.>>

- Mr. Freedom: the Diligent Raconteur, by Owen Parrott for Inventory, Vol. 01 No. o1, Fall-Winter 2009.

Pretty interesting.

A Single Man, Landmark Lagoon Cinema, Minneapolis

As predicted, my fears were premature and A Single Man finally made its way to a theater nearby. Earlier this week, I was so excited to learn it was playing at the Lagoon Cinema in Uptown.

Set in the '60s, this movie draws upon the classic aesthetics and style that era, which doesn't hurt, especially in our current Mad Men-enamoured times. The wardrobe, props, and setting all work seamlessly to give the storyline credibility and substance. It also doesn't hurt that the cast of this movie is comprised of very attractive individuals -- Colin Firth, Matthew Goode, Nicholas Hoult, Jon Kortajarena (the face of the Tom Ford ads!), and Julianne Moore. Tom Ford's eponymous line is what dresses Colin Firth's character. And with such style and confidence! Perhaps a commentary can be made that the Tom Ford line transcends time. Perhaps I'm sounding cheesy. In short, this movie is such a work of beauty. Sad beauty. I highly recommend.

I'm not sure how much longer this film will be showing, so get thee to the Lagoon!

A few thoughts:

I must have those frames Colin Firth wears. Yes, yes, I realize there is no shortage of thick black frames on the market right now, but to find one that doesn't feel cheap takes some time (and money!). I'm wondering if the frames themselves are also an extension of the Tom Ford eyewear line -- they're missing the characteristic "T" on the sides, which makes me wonder. What I love about these ones is the fullness/roundness of the eyes -- sometimes that wayfarer look gets too narrow and cat-eyed, don't you think. I personally prefer a bit more "geek" than "cool cat"...


As for the incredibly good-looking Matthew Goode, he is definitely enjoying the spotlight right now. Anybody catch his editorial spread in the current issue of GQ?

I could stare into Nicholas Hoult's blue eyes forever. What's more, his sweater he dons for most of the movie is gorgeous -- mohair blend is my guess? The boatneck works so well, truth be told, I never considered it an option for men's sweaters.

After realizing the role of Carlos was played by Jon Kortajarena, I concluded I definitely prefer how he looks in the film, all James Dean-esque, as opposed to his Tom Ford ads. The ads are sexy and great, don't get me wrong, but there's something attractive about the less glossy, buffed, and polished look he's given in the movie.

I want this Mercedes someday! I definitely have a growing obsession with vintage Mercedes. But I'm no car aficionado, not in the least. That means I don't even know what model this one is. Anybody care to enlighten me?




**SPOILER ALERT**

My last thought has to do with the ending. Throughout the course of the movie, the audience learns Colin Firth has heart disease. Near the beginning of the movie, he's shown gripping his chest in an episode of angina, my guess is unstable angina give he's just walking within the confines of his one-level house. He grips with his right hand over his left chest. Pretty straightforward. Later on, Julianne Moore's character asks him about a incident that sounds more like a prolonged episode of Prinzmetal's angina, perhaps verging on an NSTEMI. Still, nothing surprising. However, did anybody notice that when he meets his demise at the end of the film with his fatal heart attack, it's his right upper extremity that is affected, and he's using his left hand over his right chest? I'm curious what other people's thoughts are on this. Maybe it's just a filming fluke that couldn't be rectified during post-production editing? Or does it symbolize something more?